Planning is important and sometimes plans change in the process!

Using graph paper, I spent many hours creating scaled plans with different options until I decided what I really wanted. I had made a list of the "gear" I wanted to make room for and I knew how much space I needed above for the dogs, so I had my parameters. Having created a riser previously, I also had specific "parts" in mind. However, I often get those lightbulb moments just by perusing the aisles of the local home improvement store and frequently find "creative" uses for some very odd pieces of hardware. For this project, it was pretty straight-forward. I needed something secure and parts that wouldn't damage my vehicle or scratch the things I was storing underneath. I used plastic runners underneath everything to protect the vehicle from dirt and debris.

I used 1x4's cut down to 8" for the legs, and a 4'x8' sheet of good quality plywood for the platforms. I prefer to have a riser that consists of a rear section and a separate removable front section which increases the flexibility of what I can fit. This essentially means building two risers and connecting them together in the middle. (A future article will detail the addition of the front riser.) I had the home improvement store pre-cut the sheet of plywood into the general size I needed so that was a huge help. It also allowed me to fit the pieces in my vehicle to get them home. I did, however, have to use a jigsaw to shape the plywood so it would fit to the contours of my vehicle. (Keep in mind, nothing is square in vehicles.) In the Mariner, there is also a side storage spot that I would likely need access to at some point so I didn't want to wedge that shut. Sand paper is a necessity! Be sure you sand all edges to prevent splinters.

For the construction, I used only metal screws and bolts with rounded edges in spots where they might be in contact with dogs or dog gear. Wood screws have the sharp point and I didn't feel they would be as secure. I did use them to attach the legs under the platform then added L-brackets (secured with metal screws) to stabilize the legs. I could've used 2x4's instead of 1x4's but I was trying to conserve on the weight of the riser.

Using a scrap piece of carpet, I used carpet tape and short wood screws to fasten it at all points, and wrapped the edges to help protect from scratches to my vehicle. The *extra-creative* part of this section was the use of turnbuckles to fasten the riser to the vehicle. It's important to locate the most secure parts of your interior and use them to your advantage. Eyebolt screws are a must to use as attachment points. I recommend using the metal screws with bolts and washers so they go through the piece of wood and fasten on both sides if possible.

For the crating area, I took one of my favorite items, the 3-door "Ultima" crate. I have medium-sized dogs, so I knew that I needed spaces approximately 24x36x24h for each dog. The 3-door crate is 27"h but has a base that rises up 3" with folding side panels that measure 24"h which is perfect for my needs. The crate is put together with "J-hooks" which are easy enough to take apart with needlenose pliers.

I disassembled the crate so I could use the 24x24 front and back door panels and the 24x36 side door panel. This allowed me to have actual crate doors at the rear of the vehicle as an entry point for the dogs, and a door between the two sections if I ever want to open it up between them. I used my Dremel with metal cutoff tool to cut down those 24x24 panels to 22"w. I used the buffer to eliminate any sharp parts. I also cut and bent the panels in a way to match the shape of the rear opening. It was a bit tricky, but it worked. I used the hooks on the crate panels to connect to eye-bolts I'd placed on the edge of the platform and additionally secured them to points in the vehicle. I also cross-supported the crate panels with simple shelf supports.

At the front of the rear riser, I placed a simple cargo divider. There are many styles with adjustable parts to expand to the size of your vehicle. Some of those versions are difficult, if not impossible to keep the sliding parts in place so I opted for a model with most parts welded together and telescoping extension points. I connected it to the front of the rear riser instead of increasing the height to wedge it top-to-bottom. I have found that they rarely stay in place and they mar the ceiling of you verhicle in the process. As a final touch, I used zip ties at all connection points and bungees to secure the door latches which cuts down the rattle noise while in transit.

I'm very pleased with the riser so far. I still need to build the front riser, but I will have the opportunity to "test drive" it awhile and will tweak it a bit before I add the front section. Aside from the hours of planning I did, the construction took me two full days to complete. I took my time and made sure to do it right the first time. Remember the old rule: "Measure twice, cut once."

Happy Traveling!

(You can see more photos in our Gallery Section)